One of the best things Iāve tasted in the last 10 years!
By Ari Weinzweig
If you like spicy food, you will NOT want to miss this incredible jarred spread/sauce of amazing red peppers from the hills around Salerno in southern Italy. Itās so good, and so versatile, that, Iām not exaggerating, Tammie and I together have gone through a dozen quart jars in the last year! To be clear, thatās just the two of us, since weāre too introverted to entertain and the dogs obviously donāt eat it. The IASA peperoncino is that good.
About IASA
The small, family-owned firm of IASA (say āEe-Yah-Sahā), which formally stands for Ittica Alimentare Salerno, was founded by Francesco di Mauro back in 1969. It was a big year in historyāthe first human walked on the moon, Richard Nixon and Pierre Elliott Trudeau came to office, Woodstock happened in upstate New York, Sesame Street debuted on national television, and the Stooges released their song ā1969.ā With all that going on, hardly anyone would have, understandably, taken note of a small anchovy curing company in the tiny coastal town of Cetara. Cetara is known for its fishāit’s been said for centuries to have the best seafood on the Amalfi coast. The name comes fromĀ cetaria, an ancient method for the local trapping of wild tuna. The town is also known forĀ Colatura, the liquid that is drained off the barrels in which anchovies are cured. IASA also makes amazing anchovies and we have a few jars for sale at the Roadhouse. Like the peperoncino red peppers, all are hand-crafted and packed in olive oil.
About the Peperoncino
The feature of this piece, the IASA peperoncino, are equally excellent. Iāve tasted other versions of this sort of thing, but none of them come close to the excellence of the IASA. Itās made from a variety of pepper called “Amante” by locals; the word also means ālover,ā which is exactly how I relate to these chopped Italian chiles. The fresh, brilliant crimson peppers are mashed to a coarse paste, mixed with olive oil, and left to macerate for a few months to develop many layers of complex flavors. I tasted them first in Florence at friend, importer, and author Rolando Beramendiās apartment and I was hooked right off the bat. The peperoncino are fairly hotānot mind blowing like eating a habanero, but markedly more than mild. The IASA peperoncino has an exceptionally long finish and full flavor with a remarkable bit of umami in the mix.
The IASA peperoncino is a critical ingredient in what Italians call Aglio, Olio, eĀ Peperoncinoāpasta with garlic, oil, and peppers. Itās a regular item in southern Italy for the same reason that itās so popular at our house, and also, as youāll see inĀ this instructional video, at friend and food writer Elizabeth Minchilliās. Of the pasta dish, Elizabeth says: āItās what you have in the house when you come home from a long night out. It is also what you probably have in your cupboard when you have to get dinner on the table and thereās nothing else in the house. … These days weāre preferring preserved red pepper, processed at the height of the season from specific producers, over dried. It always gives a brighter, fruitier, and more intense flavor than dried.ā In the 30 years or so that Elizabeth and I have been friends, we nearly always agree on culinary subjects, and this is no exception. Her top pick for peperoncino to keep in the pantry? You guessed it! Itās IASA!
How to enjoy the peperoncino at the Roadhouse
We have the IASA peperoncino at the Roadhouse, so that you can order a ramekin of it on the side. Itās awesome on a burger or really with anything else! Iād just order it to eat with Bakehouse bread.Ā Add it to a Poā Boy or a fried chicken sandwich instead of the very good New Mexico green chile ranch that comes with it. Dip some fried chicken or grilled shrimp. Excellent on an egg sandwich or spread on a steak! We also have the IASA for sale at the Roadhouse if you want to buy a jar to take home.
How I enjoy the peperoncino at home!
Some folks like to use the IASA peperoncino just a tiny bit at a time, but Tammie and I use it by the spoonful, and generously so at that. What do we do with it? You name it. My top choice is just to mix it with pastaāat the dinner Rolando did at the Roadhouse last month, we served it with the Rustichella spaghetti thatās made of heirloom Saragolla wheat (we have some of the Spaghetti at the Roadhouse and the Rigatoncini at the Deli). I just add a tiny bit more olive oil and grated cheese over the top. Sometimes I add tinned sardines and sautĆ©ed greens as wellātheyāre a perfect choice to pair with the IASA peperoncino. We also add the IASA to soupsābrothy ones, bean soups, tomato soups, etc.ājust drop a spoonful in the bowl when youāre about to eat. Spread some of the IASA peperoncino on grilled cheese sandwiches, or serve it with eggs or egg saladāa dab on deviled eggs is delicious! Put it on hot slices of pizza at the table. Add a bit to mashed potatoes, rice, avocados, or avocado toast. The options are essentially endless. Often, Iāll use the IASA peperoncino as my salad dressing simply by adding a spoonful straight into the bowl!
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